Valentino russian collection12/23/2023 ![]() ![]() But I’m curious about a couple of things. It’s disgusting.īOBBI SALVÖR MENUEZ - Well, bouncing off death, obviously… I loved Russian Doll, your genius brainchild, and that deals a lot with death again and again. And I feel bad saying this, but it’s gone too far. Dreams and lightness, yes-but superficiality, no.NATASHA LYONNE - But I say, “Fuck it, kill ’em.” I said what I said. “But there must be awareness of what’s behind it and of the values it represents. On the other hand, I believe fashion has to make us dream, engaging us with its emotional narrative,” he reflected. It’s an industry that provides jobs for so many people-and I feel truly responsible for this ethical aspect. I believe that fashion is still relevant. I’m not interested in fashion as just marketing-what I’m interested in is fashion as a creative expression of a deep sense of humanity. If we deny the social moment, it’s like doing just half of what’s expected of our work. Today, creativity has to communicate a more human message-as designers, our duty is to convey an idea of beauty which is deeply related to the times we’re living in. ![]() They have to appreciate the human value behind that T-shirt. Young customers buying a T-shirt they like are also buying the values that T-shirt represents. “Fashion has to convey shared values and not stereotypes, and an idea of community. What’s its relevance today, which role can it play? “As a designer, I feel I have not only a creative responsibility, but an ethical one,” he said. With social movements dramatically reframing the conversation around justice and human rights, one wonders what the place of fashion is. Piccioli has been exploring the gender equality theme for quite some time, giving it full exposure in his fall collection presented in Paris before the lockdown. ![]() Lucas El Bali was the male model who joined Boscono for the shoot. “The approach is rather crossover conceptually,” Piccioli said. Again, individuality and humanity are the pivots around which the collection, which was designed to appeal to both genders, came alive. There’s a palpable sense of intimacy and of a familiar bond between photographer and model. A spontaneous energy radiates from the images, shot by Piccioli in the natural surroundings of his home: a lake where he goes swimming a sulfur mine where Pier Paolo Pasolini shot some scenes from his 1964 movie Il Vangelo Secondo Matteo. This is what I wanted to bring about in my images.”Īnd what’s more unique than a dear friend you’ve known and loved for years? “Mariacarla and I, we go back a long way,” he said. “What I was interested in focusing on was what I’ve missed most in this confinement- the simple feeling of human connection, of shared love and friendship. I didn’t want the usual glamour of a fashion shoot,” he continued. ![]() I decided to photograph the collection myself because it seemed more coherent in this moment to send out a message with no filters, no manipulation, no other interpretation or mediation. Conveying a sense of intimacy, a sentiment of individual connection, of emotion. “I wanted something even more personal, very close to myself. He has imbued the rarefied world of couture with emotional values-exposing and revealing its craft and handmade processes, and shining a light on his team of seamstresses and artisans as essential players behind his fabulous creations. The human quality of creativity is paramount to Piccioli’s practice. A pure fashion process, as it should be done.” “The collection was born out of flat drawings-paper and pencil, no styling, no mood board, just researching on paper shapes that linger in your head. “I wanted to convey spontaneity and truth, even imperfection-but it’s the feel of human imperfection you long for right now,” he explained. Going full circle in the creative process, he decided to lens the collection himself, enlisting his longtime friend, the model Mariacarla Boscono. “I profoundly love what I do this is my passion, something fundamental for me-it isn’t just work.” The resort collection is the byproduct of the time spent alone drawing and painting, while remaining connected with his team. “I never stopped working,” he said during a Zoom call. He’s adding photography to his résumé of creative skills, which the confinement, spent in his hometown of Nettuno, Italy, seems to have amplified. The lockdown has apparently unlocked the Renaissance man inside Pierpaolo Piccioli. ![]()
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